New Year's in Florence

After another cozy breakfast at Villa Romantica in Lucca, we headed east to our next destination; Florence. Our drive shouldn't have taken more than an hour but true to my reputation of not doing well navigating into big cities, we got lost and it took quite a bit longer. But….we finally arrived, and although we were a bit late, our reservation at the Gallery of the Accademia was still honored and we got to see, among other things, Michelangelo’s David in all his glory. When I was there in 1993(a long time ago) he could be photographed, but no longer. Maybe he's gotten shy in h is old age? Maybe too many flashes over the years will adversely affect his perfect marble physique?!? No matter, he was magnificent and at least they still allow photographs of the outdoor replica in the Piazza della Segnoria near the Uffizi Gallery.





We walked from the Academia to a little lunch spot, Caffe Coquinarius, recommended by a young friend who’d studied in Florence last year. It was one of her favorites and we could see why as we enjoyed a great meal and wonderful ambiance there as well.





















After lunch, it was time to check into the apartment we’d rented for our stay. Located a few blocks east of the Duomo, we were centrally located to just about everything and being a 5th floor walk up meant we didn’t have to worry about eating a little extra pasta during our stay! The apartment was lovely even if there wasn’t even so much as salt, pepper or sugar in the kitchen and no firewood for the much advertised fireplace! The girls were thrilled with their elegant room and in suite marble bathroom...




One of the apartment's best features was the roof terrace. Despite the cold weather, we did sit out on it a couple of occasions. Unfortunately, as we find in many of our travels, there was a fair amount of scaffolding and cranes blocking and otherwise gorgeous skyline. As you can see, we were very close to the Duomo!



and could see quite a bit of the rest of Florence as well!



Our time in Florence was mostly spent doing what most people do here….walking around and enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of this beautiful, jewel of an Italian city! So much history, so much amazing art, right before your eyes! Here we are back on ground level in front of the Cathedral or "Duomo"...





New Year’s Eve day we headed off for our appointment at the Uffizi Gallery….unfortunately, there were only 4 in our party as Sarah had awakened with a tummy ache. We left her to sleep and hopefully rally for lunch.

The Uffizi was founded in 1581 by Francesco I de' Medici, who collected numerous artworks in the building designed by Vasari. It is considered one of the greatest museums in Italy and the world. It was amazing and we spent several hours carefully going through the many Galleries filled with masterpieces by Italian and foreign artists from the 13th and 15th centuries. So much to take in!

We headed back to the apartment to check on Sarah, who was feeling much worse and clearly not going anywhere! We ate panini sandwiches out on the rooftop terrace so as to stick close by. Sarah spent the next two days basically in bed or in the bathroom nearby, poor thing. The only saving grace was that the TV in the apartment got the Disney Chanel and in English-something she hadn’t seen for 6 months! We all took turns staying with her and got out in small groups to see more of Florence.

The Santa Maria Novella, a 13th century Dominican church...



a beautiful winter skyline looking south across the Arno...

I followed several people into this doorway and was surprisingly rewarded with a lovely chapel and a fabulous creche scene...

On New Year’s Eve, we had reservations at another highly recommended restaurant, La Giostra. A closet prince and double Ph.D. decided in retirement to indulge his love of cooking and opened this little-known fine restaurant conveniently located just around the corner from our apartment, thank the Lord! The owner/chef doesn't stick strictly to Tuscan dishes, but rather lets his culinary imagination and half-Hapsburg heritage marry Italian and Austrian cooking, with spectacular results.


Our evening was truly an experience in every way! When we arrived the waiter/son of the owner seated us at our table clad in all white eastern clothing, wearing silver bracelets that he’s been collecting from Tibet and Nepal "for many years". The bracelets were stacked up to his elbows and he also wore about a half a dozen necklaces around his neck. His shoulder length, wavy, dark hair and chiseled face made him really something to gaze at…not quite a "David" but similar in one way; we didn’t get his photo either! We were seated at a table with a chilly draft so when we moved to a warmer table, we lost our eccentric waiter. However, we did follow his gastronomic recommendations and had some of the best food ever! Our appetizers(an incredible fois gras) and first courses( their pear and pecorino raviolis were to die for) were all interesting and delicious. I will NEVER forget my main course of goat. Yes, goat! The six little succulent chops were just as he'd described "more tender and more flavorful than lamb". They were served with yummy lightly battered, fried artichoke hearts. Nick and Nicholas each ordered one of their famous steaks which you could practically cut with a feather!

We passed on dessert as we were too full and wanted to get back to our patient. She was glad to have us back and I stayed with her for the rest of the evening. Nick, Nicholas and Lindsey went out on the town for dessert and champagne and to experience NYE with all the excited revelers of Florence! The city was alive with people and ablaze with fireworks which Sarah and I watched out of our apartment windows.

New Year’s Day morning was gorgeous! A chilly, but sunny day and perfect for getting some exercise and seeing the city. I went for a 2 hour circular walk around the entire town with only my camera for company. A great way to start the New Year! There was a lot of activity on the Arno, where there were several boat races going on…

The Ponte Vecchio wished all a Happy New Year...


This group really knew how to start their year off right. Nothing like floating down the Arno in a gondola with champagne, a picnic and good friends!






Continuing on my walk around the circumphrence of the city, I headed toward the 14th century Franciscan church, Santa Croce, and stood in the vast piazza there. Ordinarily, this piazza is loaded with tourists but on this New Year's Day morning the mood was delightfully quiet.

To the right of the church was a lovely courtyard...

Later that day, we all went to lunch at a spot a young friend of Nicholas' recommended, The Yellow Bar. We had a nice lunch there and, while Sarah joined us, she only managed a bread stick and a little flat Coke before she and I went back to the apartment. The kids were a bit tired and decided to hang out in the apartment for the afternoon. Nick and I took the opportunity to go for a nice long walk, just the two of us. We crossed over the Ponte Vecchio and walked around on the other side of the river, up to the Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens etc. Unfortunately all were closed on account of the holiday. One thing we learned about travelling; best to avoid Sundays, Mondays and holidays when most things are closed! Live and learn…
On January 2, with everyone rested and healthy again, we piled back in the Peugeot and headed back to Aix. Arrividerci Italy!!

Additional information:
Signorelli apartment found through www.windowsonitaly.com Caffe Coquinarius 15, via dele Oche, near Piazza della Republica, (055 2302153)cc accepted
La Giostra (tel. 055 241341): Borgo Pinti 10r, Off Piazza Salvemini, Near Santa Croce 7pm-midnight,cc accepted

Yellow Bar 39, Via del Proconsolo (055/211.766)
Great Italian Pottery: Sbigol Terrecotte, at the end of the Borgo Pinti (right near La Giostra) 055 2479713

'Tis the Season to be Jolly....

The month of December was a busy month here in Aix. Having our two oldest children, Nicholas and Lindsey, arrive for the month really added to the festivities! Lindsey arrived on the 10th and the whirlwind began. On her second night here, we went to Pasta Cosy where we enjoyed a delicous dinner while listeninng to Christmas music by Hilary, Dom, Julie and Darrin.




Ironically, Linds had arrived just in time for this same event last year so it was like a welcome back to Aix party for her! Fabien knew right away this was an occasion that called for champagne!!


That night wasn't the only time we celebrated special arrivals at Pasta Cosy. The following week, Nicholas and Matt, Lindsey's good friend from Duxbury, arrived and we returned for another fantastic evening and another bottle of celebratory champagne! We SO glad to be one big HAPPY family, encore!!!

Sarah was thrilled to be out with both her sister and brother!

Hilary invited us to her apartment one night while her sister, Heather, was visiting from California. She made her special chicken pasta and chocolate fondue-yum!!

One Sunday afternoon, we went to a lovely Champagne Carolling Party. Nothing like the power of singing to get everyone in the Christmas spirit!

Hilary and Dom led everyone in song, dance and some Santa hat tossing...

Our hosts, the Butler family, Julie, Mallory, Shane and 1/2 Syd Butler(sorry Syd) greeting their guests...

Last but not least, the Christmas season wouldn't be complete without a School Christmas Show. Sarah's school provided us with that requisite 2 1/2 hour "entertaining" experience! Sarah's music class performed several songs....

Sarah and fellow chanteur, Mallory...

Several of us sold snacks and refreshments during the performance to raise money for some worthy cause that escapes me just now. It provided us with entertainment when the action on stage didn't!


Fa-la-la-la-la, La-la-la-la!!!

Wow, that brings me up to Christmas Day so the next blog entries will be about our 5 day driving trip to Pisa, Lucca and Florence. A bientot!

Vrolijke Kerstmis, Feliz Navidad or Joyeux Noel

Not only does Christmas look different all over the world it's celebrated differently too. We've been fortunate during our two Christmas seasons in Aix to celebrate and experience the holiday internationally.

One December night we were invited to a Dutch Christmas celebration where we met Sinta Claus and his helper, Zwart Piet, or "Black Peter". Sinta Claus day is the 5th of December in Holland and it's then, not the 25th, that good Dutch boys and girls get their presents. As our Dutch friends explained, they give gifts on the 5th and reserve Christmas for the celebration of the birth of Jesus. What a wonderful tradition!


Sinta Claus definitley looks different than our traditional Santa Claus. He's slimmer and more religious looking with his tall hat with the cross and long red robe. As for his helper, Black Pete, he has black curly hair and a black face. I checked out the origins of this decidedly politically incorrect 'elf' and they are disputed. Some say his face is black because he climbs down chimneys to deliver presents. Others trace a link back to the black Moorish slaves who served the Spanish when they were colonial masters of the Nethedrlands. Whatever his origin, he helps Sinta Claus and normally gives out a special type of Dutch cookie to the children. They are tiny, round, crunchy and cinnamon-tasting. I read that the Dutch children normally bring their own bags to fill them with these cute little cookies when they go to see Sinta Claus.

The two Dutch families who organized this fun evening put a lot of time into the costumes and the performance. Each guest got to sit on Sinta Claus' knee and have him tell them of something bad they'd done that year...but he gave us each a gift and some cookies anyway!!

Hanneke and Linda, wives of Sinta Claus and Black Peter, relaxing after a job well done!

We went to a Spanish party on the 15th. It was an authentic Spanish evening even if it wasn't exactly celebrating their traditional Christmas. The sangria, tapas, paella and the flamingo dancers were all fantastic!






On December 25th, we had an opportunity to celebrate Christmas Dinner with our French friends, Denis and Bettina Lucas-du-Reau and their children. They invited us to their house at one o'clock and after bisous all around, we celebrated the occasions with an an aperitif made by Denis' family called Pineau des Charentes. Pineau is made from a blend of unfermented grape must and Cognac brandy. It is delicious!


When we all sat down for dinner, our first course was two types of fois gras served with toasts and more Pineau, yum! The main course was Duck Confit with roasted apples, haricots verts, chestnuts and pommes frittes(a course added to the menu by their children and appreciated by children of all ages at the table!). After this, we had a cheese course! We had to forgo the While we sat at the table, we were treated to Waldemar play a Mozart piece...

Afterwards, we moved into the living room where we rolled up the rug and danced!! We think Bettina and Denis could win a dance contest! Their oldest son, Eymeric, knows a thing or two about being on a dance floor, too!



Lindsey, Sarah and Capucine were quite content to be observant but lovely wallflowers....



until Nicholas was finally able to convince Capucine to dance with him...




All the dancing was followed by some less energetic activities... chatting inside for the women and target practice outside for the men in the group!

"It's Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas....."

Christmas is a magical time almost anywhere in the world and it's interesting to see it in different towns, states and countries. Here in Aix, we've found it to be magical and beautiful but understated as well. Most of the decorations are simple, mainly blue and white lights, and the stores have only a few subtle decorations; perhaps a small flocked Christmas tree outside their door or some ornaments or bows in the windows. One of the first signs Christmas is coming in Aix is the appearance of the lights, especially on the Cours Mirabeau. Talk about magical!!






The second, almost simultaneous sign Christmas is coming is the construction of dozens of tiny chalets on the entire east side of the Cours Mirabeau. Vendors from all over Provence rent these seasonal chalets to sell their wares. You can purchase a wide variety of gifts, crafts and food items. We love getting a vin chaud(hot mulled wine) or a chocolate chaud in the evening and strolling the Cours to check out the people, the chalets and their wares.

Last year, we befriended our favorite vendor, Rose-Ann. She and her husband, Philippe, have a company, Provence Lavandes. They sell the most beautiful, unique handmade lavender creations! Next year, they will be featured in the William Sonoma Home catalogue but for now you can see them here or at http://www.provencelavandes.com/.






Another top selling item at the Aix Christmas market are santons. For those of you who don't know what these are, don't feel bad, until last year I had never even heard of one. A santon is a small hand-painted terracotta figurine that is used for building nativity scenes. The word "santon" comes from the Provençal "santoun," or "little saint." They became popular during the French Revolution when the churches were closed and the larger, traditional nativity scenes in churches prohibited. Smaller figurines began appearing in homes, and quickly gained popularity.They are a traditional product of Provence and in the month leading up to Christmas, there are traditional santon fairs all over Provence where santons of all sizes can be acquired to decorate domestic creches. The traditional manufacture of santons is centred on Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Arles. Apart from the standard figures and animals associated with the nativity (including elephants and camels), there are countless other santons depicting traditional characters from Provencal village life, including the motley fool, the miller and the blind man. In the past two years, thanks gifts from my children, I have a small collection.

What would the Christmas season be without music? Every day and night along the Cours Mirabeau you can usually find a group performing. One night we enjoyed the sounds of several of our friends from church who got together to sing Christmas Carols-in English!

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Happy New Year!! Bonne Annee!!

Oh, my goodness! It’s January 7th… exactly one month since the last blog entry! Where, oh where, did that month go??

Perhaps after all the holidays you are feeling the same way.....Here, in Aix, Lindsey arrived on December 10th, Nicholas on the 17th, then, of course, there was Christmas and New Year's and all the celebrations in between and somewhere along the lines we even fit in a quick trip to Italy. So, there went our month! And a GREAT one it has been. We've been blessed with a wonderful time together...photos and tales of which I’ll be sharing in the blog in the next week or so…


In the meantime, Happy New Year from us all!!

A casual Sunday walk...to the top of Mont Sainte Victoire!

Recently, Nick and I found ourselves with an entire Sunday all to ourselves! We were sitting in the kitchen having breakfast looking at this gorgeous view of Mt. Ste. Victoire and commenting on what a beautiful day was. One of us said, "A perfect day to go for a walk!" Not needing to discuss our idea with, or get the OK from, anyone else we were packed up and headed out in no time. We drove east in the direction of Mt. Ste. Victoire and parked our car at the Barrage de Bimont, an enormous dam built at the base of the eastern end of the St. Victoire range. Our plan was simply to take a trail and stop when we felt like having lunch.

We had only climbed to the top Mt. Ste. Victoire once before. That was last year with another family, our approach was from the north side and the weather had been cold and windy. Today was entirely different-including the fact that we hadn't set out to climb to the summit! After crossing the dam, we chose an interesting looking trail and just started walking.

As we walked along, we were enjoying the lower trail and the views....

but we started wondering which trail would lead us to the summit?? Before we knew it, we were headed toward the lower ridge of the mountain and the summit didn’t look all that far away. We looked at each other and said “Pour quoi pas? Let's go for it”!!

It was a more strenuous climb along the western ridge than we had imagined from below, but we determinedly trudged on and made it to the Cross at the summit(look carefully at the photo and you'll see it) in about 1 ¾ hours. Heavy rain the night before left the ground, and especially the rocky paths, quite slippery so we had be really careful. At the top, we enjoyed our picnic lunch and the 360-degree panoramic view! Our decent only took about an hour and twenty minutes.

We're sure if we’d planned this outing in advance, odds are it never would have worked out so perfectly. Hooray for spontaneity!