Friday, February 20, 2009

Egypt-Day 7-Egyptian Museum, Old Cairo and the Souks

Today, our group left for an all day adventure in Cairo. The day’s itinerary included an extensive visit to the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, lunch at a restaurant on the Nile, a visit to a bijouterie, the souks, Old Cairo, the Citadel and Mohamed Ali Mosque.

Our first stop, the museum, was a real highlight of the day. This museum was opened in 1902 and as you might imagine, it is home to the most extensive collection of ancient Egyptian antiquities in the world-120,000 items to be exact! The building shows its age but wears it well. A new museum is being built near Giza thereby combining the two attractions in the same geographic area. Our guide, Mimi, intentionally had us arrive at the museum well before it opened so we could get tickets be first in line to enter. She gave us explicit instructions upon entry to follow her at running speed through the museum up to the second floor to the popular Tutankhamen exhibit.




Imagine 25 adults and children running through an empty museum passing by statues and tombs….it was like a scene from a movie! Once at the Tutankhamen exhibit, we had the place to ourselves, which was Mimi's intent. Normally, crowds of people, crammed together like sardines, wait to just get in to see the incredible treasures of the famous Pharaoh but being the first to arrive we had plenty of elbow room and could look at all his amazing treasures leisurely. No cameras are allowed into the museum so we had to commit what we saw to memory. The exhibit contains a total of 2,099 objects from the Pharaoh’s tomb so that was quite a bit to absorb!!




Mimi was very knowledgeable and gave us a lot of behind the scenes information about the Tutankhamen as well as other exhibits in the museum. We would have loved to have spent days there, but it was time for lunch and we were hungry! We were taken to a big restaurant beside the Nile for a leisurely lunch with our group. The kids had their own table…




After lunch, we made an obligatory stop at a bijouterie. Apparently, all these tours do the same drill. Some people aren’t comfortable buying things on their own at the souks and look forward to having the opportunity to shop without pressure somewhere with fixed prices like the bijouterie. We just thought it was another way they try to make money off the tourists. We preferred to wait until later to do our shopping at the souks. Now, we're off to Old Cairo.

Driving through the streets, fresh baked bread carts, like the one this boy is tending, were common...





Our visit to Old Cairo was fascinating. This old part of the city contains remains of an ancient fortress. Our first stop was to visit the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (Abu Serga). This 4th century church is considered to be the oldest of Cairo's Christian churches. It is dedicated to two early martyrs and traditionally believed to have been built on the spot where the Holy Family, Joseph, Mary and the infant Christ, rested at the end of their journey into Egypt. Inside the church, we looked down the shaft of a staircase which lead to the spot where Mary, Joseph and Jesus are believed to have stayed. They may have lived here while Joseph worked at the fortress.


Before Egypt became an Islamic state, it was a mostly Christian country with an ancient Christian heritage. Not only was it was a land where Jesus and his family were known to have traveled, but also where early Apostles came to spread his word, particularly at first in Alexandria. Today, Christians make up only about 10-15% of the population. We visited another important Coptic church, Al Moallaqa. This church dates back to the 4th century and is supported by two towers in the Roman fortress. Because of this, it is also known as the “Hanging Church”.




Our guide also took us to one of the first synagogues in Cairo which was located right near the Coptic church. It was built in the year 882 on the remains of the basilica of a Coptic church that had been sold to Jews. It became known as the Synagogue of Elijah the Prophet and also as the Ben Ezra Synagogue.

We then drove to another part of the city, up on a hill, to the Citadel and Mohammed Ali Mosque.



During the 12th century, walls were built around the old Islamic cities of Cairo and around the Citadel. This complex stands on a hill commanding views of practically the whole of Cairo. Stone from the Giza pyramids was used to build the Citadel’s fortifications...



The best known monument in the Citadel is the 19th c. alabaster-lined Mohammed Ali Mosque...





The design of the mosque imitates that of the Ottoman mosques in Istanbul, with a large, square ground plan, central dome, four half-domes and two tall minarets. It was impressive!



This is the only mosque in Cairo which allows entry to non muslims. We removed our shoes upon entering the complex and were permitted to wander around the interior with our guide...



The view of Cairo from the mosque would have been more spectacular without the pollution...



It was dark by the time we arrived at the souks, which were filled with people and quite lively! For those not familiar with the term, a souk is the term used to designate a commercial quarter or the market in general in any Arabized or Muslim city. this was just one of several in Cairo...













Nick, Nicholas and I spent nearly an hour in this tourist shop(we had to wait for a bus) which funny enough was called Golden Gate Bazaar! This father and his three sons own and operate this and a few other tourist shops. The two sons were tending the store while we were there and they were most happy to speak with us about their lives in Cairo, in Egypt in general, their thoughts on the government, living conditions, education, employment, etc. They didn't have much nice to say about any of it and both young men hope to leave Egypt for 'greener pastures' asap. In the meantime, they've got winning smiles to help them sell their wares.




When we returned to the hotel, there was a bit of time to relax and go to the spa before dinner. We had a lovely, Indian-inspired meal with our friends and then were entertained by a large, Egyptian wedding reception taking place in the hotel. They made a lot of happy noise!!!

Tomorrow’s itinerary….. back to France! This trip will never be forgotten!!

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Egypt-Day 6: Giza, the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx

What a difference a day makes! Poor Sarah got the "tourista" bug during the night so she and I stayed at the hotel today. Nick, Nicholas and Lindsey went off with our group to tour Giza; the sight of the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx.




GIZA:

Giza is the name given to the gigagntis burial grounds of ancient Letopolis(now Cairo). They cover an area of 2,000 sq meters on a plateau. This is the only seven wonder of the ancient times that remains today; they have existed here for more than 4500 years! The Sphin and the three Great Pyramids are all that remain today. The three funerary complexes, from biggest to smallest are Cheops, Chephren, and Mycerinus. Each complex had a mortuary temple, a causeway and a valley temple. They are situated on this desert plateau in such a way that none ever hide the sun from the others. At almost 150 meters high, The Great Pyramid of Cheops, also known as Kheops or Khufu, is the oldest and the biggest pyramid in Gizah. The accepted theory is that pyramids were built to be the tomb of the pharaohs, but the actual purpose of these pyramids is still not clear. Cheops. More than two and a half million stone blocks were necessary to complete it. Chephren’s Pyramid, 136 meters high, is somewhat smaller than Cheops but may appeaer larger as it’s on higher ground. The Great Sphinx, 26 meters tall, lies in line with this pyramid. Sphinx’s were mythical creatures with human face and body of a lion. They were placed near temples, thought to be guarded by lions. The Shpinx’s face is a portrait of Chephren himself so really he is guarding his own temple. Mycerinus’ Pyramid, 62 meters high, is smaller than that of his uncle, Chephren.


Camel drivers in front of Cheops...




Nicholas and Lindsey having some fun with the pyramids...







The Great Sphinx...





From Giza, the group went to tour a papyrus factory. Papyrus, a thick paper-like material produced from the pith of the papyrus plant, was once abundant in the Nile Delta of Egypt. In addition to paper, ancient Egyptians used this plant to make boats, mattresses and mats. Today there are vendors everywhere selling papyrus but most are selling fakes. Being at the factory gave us an opportunity to see how it is made and buy the real thing!


Back at the hotel, Sarah was feeling a bit better so that afternoon Lindsey stayed with her and Nick, Nicholas and I went back to Giza for the evening "Sound and Light" show. The elaborate show is "narated" by the Sphinx himself. During the show, it is his booming voice telling of the history of the great pyramids. Nick found this comment by 'him' particularly moving;

“Alexander, Caesar and Napoleon paused at my feet. I saw the ambitious dreams of conquerors whirling like dead leaves. Tomorrow once more the rising sun will give his first caress and thousands of other suns shall rise again, and man’s oldest achievement will remain the highest, the purest. The Nile be praised, for it is the Father of all our harvest, knowledge, our architecture and all our strength.”



Tomorrow we are going to the Egyptian Museum, tour Old Cairo and visit the souks.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Egypt-Day 5/Christmas Day- Abu Simbel and Arrival Cairo

This Christmas morning reminded us of past Christmas mornings from our youth because we had to wake up while it was still dark outside! Our bags were packed the night before so we just had to drag ourselves out of bed to get a cup of coffee, a box petite dejeuner for the ride and get on the bus. For safety reasons, we were transported by military convoy south near the Sudanese boarder through the desert to Abu Simbel. There, we would view the monumental temple complex beside Lake Nasser and then fly to Cairo.

ABU SIMBEL: This temple complex was dug on the Western mountain range in 1290-1224 BC and was dedicated to the triad gods Amon-Ra, Ptah and Ra-Harakhte, by Ramses II. The Temple of Re-Harakhte, also called the Great Temple of Ramses II, is one of the most impressive temples in Egypt and in the world. Next to this temple there is the so-called Small Temple of Abu Simbel: the Temple of Hathor, dedicated to Hathor (the wife of the Sun God) and to Ramses II 's favorite wife: Queen Nefertari. These two temples would have disappeared for ever under the waters of the Nasser Lake if the UNESCO had not acted. Impressive that they were moved.
The temples in Abu Simbel were discovered by J. L. Burckhardt in 1813. Travelers to this area since Victorian times passed them by as they were completely covered in sand. The Sun Temple of Ramesses II is one of the most impressive temples in Egypt.
Ramses II, son of king Sethi I, reigned 67 years (1290-1224 BC). He was famous for the number of wives and children he had; more than 6 wives, and more than 100 children. You may think he didn't have time for anything else. This is not the case; he was a military strategist and a builder. Some of the monuments constructed during his reign are: the temples of Karnak (Luxor), The Ramesseum (on the West Bank near Luxor) and the monumental temples of Abu Simbel. He also commanded his troops in many glorious battles.



The seated statues are over 20 meters(65ft) high!







After our morning visit, we boarded a chartered flight at the nearby airport and flew to Cairo. From the airport, we made a stop for lunch along the way. What an eye opener our trip from the airport was!! Cairo lived up to it's reputation as being both very polluted and very poor. Even the ride was a bit hair raising...


The restaurant was mostly outdoors with a buffet of typical Egyptian food as well as "food for the masses"-grilled chicken, baked fish, humus, salads of carrots, chick peas, beets, warm pasta dishes and rice. There was a woman baking pita bread in an outdoor oven who made a shrill noise like a wounded peacock!! We were SURE it was a bird until we saw make the noise with her mouth.



The grilled chicken was some of the best we'd ever eaten. Nick would like to have a grill just like theirs...


When we finally got to the 5 star JW Marriott we truly felt like it was Christmas Day!! We entered the hotel and saw everything festively decorated much like we would have found it if we'd been at a hotel in the States.



MERRY CHRISTMAS, JOYEUX NOEL!!



We got to our lovely rooms...



and almost immediately went to enjoy the comforts of the hotel's spa...



Later that night, we had a fabulous Christmas dinner in the hotel with our friends, the Pellegrino's and the Le France's. The theme of the entire meal was the sea....we began with all the sushi you could eat and then could choose from too many other types of fish and seafood to even begin to describe! The deserts were amazing too, especially the Häagen-Dazs ice cream sundaes!

Tomorrow we're off to see the Great Pyramids!!

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Egypt-Day 4:Adventure on the Nile, Aswan, Philea and Christmas Eve

Today, Christmas Eve day, we left our big cruise ship and boarded smaller boats for an outing on the Nile. Sarah wrote this blog entry about our day's adventure on the Nile...


"This Christmas vacation we traveled over the Mediterranean Sea to Egypt! It was a fantastic, eye-opening and educational vacation. We were there for a week but I am going to tell you about my favorite day! Today, we woke up very early (like every other day) and hopped on to a small boat and went to a Nubian village.


We went on these small boats...


Our guide, Robert, helped everyone get board the boats...





Lindsey and I found some comfortable seats...





While we were going down the river, the crew taught us some Egyptian songs...



It was a lot of fun sitting up on top of the boat...



Mom and Dad enjoyed the boat ride...




A little while later, we arrived at the Nubian village...




The chief of the village owned about 8 homes and had given one to each of his daughters(Mom thinks they were his wives). We got to visit one of the homes where a couple of women lived with their young and beautiful children...













We got to experience many different things such as looking at real crocodiles, which were sadly cooped up in a small stucco area placed in the middle of the room. Everyone was anxious to see them and I was very happy to see that they were only about 3 feet long and not 12!




The women were also selling beautiful handmade bracelets made of wooden beads which we treated ourselves to and then I (Sarah) went to get a Henna tattoo. I got one of the Egyptian Eye. I loved it!






Nicholas and Lindsey tried smoking huka...





After visiting the Nubian house, we wandered around the village...







Lindsey stopped to say hello to this camel...






Afterwards, we got back on the boat and went to ride a camel, which I KNOW I will never do again! To go along with it, my sister, Lindsey, and I both got on a camel together and had a mute man who was leading the camel and did not even speak Arabic! That was when he showed his true side of being meant to be a mime! Our camel was very charming…except for his breath, but he always had to be at the front of the line galloping……….truly not my thing!


Here we are heading off into the desert. I am clinging to Lindsey for dear life!




Dad's camel wasn't too sure he wanted Dad to get on his back. Dad doesn't look too sure he wants to be on the camel's back either!





Here we are out in the middle of a desert riding camels and this guy is on his cell phone!!!





Mom took this shot while she was on a camel so it's a bit out of focus, but you can see I'm not thrilled with this experience...





Here we come back from our ride. Nicholas had to ride with another boy from our group...




After riding the camels, we got into different boats called feluccasand went sailing on the Nile. It was really fun, especially for Dad...



Our Egyptian captain...


Even I, who sometimes don't like sailing, had fun!




Next they took us in the small motor boats to visit the first Aswan Dam, built in 1902 with the help of the British...





We later visited a beautiful botanical garden filled with flowers, plants and trees from all Egyptian soil and country.



A view of the river from the gardens...



This was my favorite day in Egypt because I got to experience things instead of looking at them." by Sarah






The rest of our day(continued by Susie)...

On our way back to the cruise ship, we passed the Mausoleum of the Aga Khan, distinguished Imam of the Ismaeli Muslims who chose this spot as his place of eternal rest due to the air of peacefulness it emanates...





After lunch aboard the ship , we went off for the afternoon by bus to visit the new Aswan Dam and the Temple of Philae...

ASWAN DAM: Built in 1960, the dam was a collaborative effort between the Soviets and the Egyptians. It took ten years to build and formed the biggest artificial lake in the world; Lake Nasser. A few more facts about the dam; 35,000 workers were necessary to complete it, it is 3,830 meters long, 111 meters high, 970 meters wide at it's base and 40 meters wide at the top. Lake Nasser is more than 500 miles long, and provides irrigation and electricity for the whole of Egypt.





The temples on the Island of Philae started to become flooded after the construction of the first Aswan Dam in 1902. Between the years of 1972-1980 UNESCO mounted a gigantic rescue operation to move these temples to higher ground. We took small boats out to the island of Agilkia to visit the temples.

PHILAE
Built during the final Egyptian dynasties and in Graeco-Roman times, the Temple of Isis is the most important temple on the island. Isis is the wife of Osiris, god of the underworld, and mother of Horus. The cult of the goddess Isis was transferred here to be near the Island of Biga where the Ancient Egyptians believed the body of Osiris to be buried.







Being out in the Egyptian desert, under sunny, warm skies it was hard for us to remember that it was Christmas Eve! Of course, we were much closer to Jesus' birth place and in a climate like that of the first Christmas than ever before in our lives. The French celebrate Christmas on the evening of the 24th and the crew of the ship made a big celebration for everyone. there was a entertainment before dinner, an AMAZING display of culinary magic for all to see followed by a delicious, four course meal with champagne for all!!













Tomorrow we leave the ship to visit Abu Simbel and then fly to Cairo for the second half of our vacation. See you!