After another cozy breakfast at Villa Romantica in Lucca, we headed east to our next destination; Florence. Our drive shouldn't have taken more than an hour but true to my reputation of not doing well navigating into big cities, we got lost and it took quite a bit longer. But….we finally arrived, and although we were a bit late, our reservation at the Gallery of the Accademia was still honored and we got to see, among other things, Michelangelo’s David in all his glory. When I was there in 1993(a long time ago) he could be photographed, but no longer. Maybe he's gotten shy in h is old age? Maybe too many flashes over the years will adversely affect his perfect marble physique?!? No matter, he was magnificent and at least they still allow photographs of the outdoor replica in the Piazza della Segnoria near the Uffizi Gallery.
We walked from the Academia to a little lunch spot, Caffe Coquinarius, recommended by a young friend who’d studied in Florence last year. It was one of her favorites and we could see why as we enjoyed a great meal and wonderful ambiance there as well.
After lunch, it was time to check into the apartment we’d rented for our stay. Located a few blocks east of the Duomo, we were centrally located to just about everything and being a 5th floor walk up meant we didn’t have to worry about eating a little extra pasta during our stay! The apartment was lovely even if there wasn’t even so much as salt, pepper or sugar in the kitchen and no firewood for the much advertised fireplace! The girls were thrilled with their elegant room and in suite marble bathroom...
One of the apartment's best features was the roof terrace. Despite the cold weather, we did sit out on it a couple of occasions. Unfortunately, as we find in many of our travels, there was a fair amount of scaffolding and cranes blocking and otherwise gorgeous skyline. As you can see, we were very close to the Duomo!
and could see quite a bit of the rest of Florence as well!
Our time in Florence was mostly spent doing what most people do here….walking around and enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of this beautiful, jewel of an Italian city! So much history, so much amazing art, right before your eyes! Here we are back on ground level in front of the Cathedral or "Duomo"...
New Year’s Eve day we headed off for our appointment at the Uffizi Gallery….unfortunately, there were only 4 in our party as Sarah had awakened with a tummy ache. We left her to sleep and hopefully rally for lunch.
The Uffizi was founded in 1581 by Francesco I de' Medici, who collected numerous artworks in the building designed by Vasari. It is considered one of the greatest museums in Italy and the world. It was amazing and we spent several hours carefully going through the many Galleries filled with masterpieces by Italian and foreign artists from the 13th and 15th centuries. So much to take in!
We headed back to the apartment to check on Sarah, who was feeling much worse and clearly not going anywhere! We ate panini sandwiches out on the rooftop terrace so as to stick close by. Sarah spent the next two days basically in bed or in the bathroom nearby, poor thing. The only saving grace was that the TV in the apartment got the Disney Chanel and in English-something she hadn’t seen for 6 months! We all took turns staying with her and got out in small groups to see more of Florence.
The Santa Maria Novella, a 13th century Dominican church...
a beautiful winter skyline looking south across the Arno...
I followed several people into this doorway and was surprisingly rewarded with a lovely chapel and a fabulous creche scene...
On New Year’s Eve, we had reservations at another highly recommended restaurant, La Giostra. A closet prince and double Ph.D. decided in retirement to indulge his love of cooking and opened this little-known fine restaurant conveniently located just around the corner from our apartment, thank the Lord! The owner/chef doesn't stick strictly to Tuscan dishes, but rather lets his culinary imagination and half-Hapsburg heritage marry Italian and Austrian cooking, with spectacular results.
Our evening was truly an experience in every way! When we arrived the waiter/son of the owner seated us at our table clad in all white eastern clothing, wearing silver bracelets that he’s been collecting from Tibet and Nepal "for many years". The bracelets were stacked up to his elbows and he also wore about a half a dozen necklaces around his neck. His shoulder length, wavy, dark hair and chiseled face made him really something to gaze at…not quite a "David" but similar in one way; we didn’t get his photo either! We were seated at a table with a chilly draft so when we moved to a warmer table, we lost our eccentric waiter. However, we did follow his gastronomic recommendations and had some of the best food ever! Our appetizers(an incredible fois gras) and first courses( their pear and pecorino raviolis were to die for) were all interesting and delicious. I will NEVER forget my main course of goat. Yes, goat! The six little succulent chops were just as he'd described "more tender and more flavorful than lamb". They were served with yummy lightly battered, fried artichoke hearts. Nick and Nicholas each ordered one of their famous steaks which you could practically cut with a feather!
We passed on dessert as we were too full and wanted to get back to our patient. She was glad to have us back and I stayed with her for the rest of the evening. Nick, Nicholas and Lindsey went out on the town for dessert and champagne and to experience NYE with all the excited revelers of Florence! The city was alive with people and ablaze with fireworks which Sarah and I watched out of our apartment windows.
New Year’s Day morning was gorgeous! A chilly, but sunny day and perfect for getting some exercise and seeing the city. I went for a 2 hour circular walk around the entire town with only my camera for company. A great way to start the New Year! There was a lot of activity on the Arno, where there were several boat races going on…
The Ponte Vecchio wished all a Happy New Year...
This group really knew how to start their year off right. Nothing like floating down the Arno in a gondola with champagne, a picnic and good friends!
Continuing on my walk around the circumphrence of the city, I headed toward the 14th century Franciscan church, Santa Croce, and stood in the vast piazza there. Ordinarily, this piazza is loaded with tourists but on this New Year's Day morning the mood was delightfully quiet.
To the right of the church was a lovely courtyard...
Later that day, we all went to lunch at a spot a young friend of Nicholas' recommended, The Yellow Bar. We had a nice lunch there and, while Sarah joined us, she only managed a bread stick and a little flat Coke before she and I went back to the apartment. The kids were a bit tired and decided to hang out in the apartment for the afternoon. Nick and I took the opportunity to go for a nice long walk, just the two of us. We crossed over the Ponte Vecchio and walked around on the other side of the river, up to the Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens etc. Unfortunately all were closed on account of the holiday. One thing we learned about travelling; best to avoid Sundays, Mondays and holidays when most things are closed! Live and learn…
On January 2, with everyone rested and healthy again, we piled back in the Peugeot and headed back to Aix. Arrividerci Italy!!
Additional information:
Signorelli apartment found through www.windowsonitaly.com Caffe Coquinarius 15, via dele Oche, near Piazza della Republica, (055 2302153)cc accepted
La Giostra (tel. 055 241341): Borgo Pinti 10r, Off Piazza Salvemini, Near Santa Croce 7pm-midnight,cc accepted
Yellow Bar 39, Via del Proconsolo (055/211.766)
Great Italian Pottery: Sbigol Terrecotte, at the end of the Borgo Pinti (right near La Giostra) 055 2479713
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