Along our route going north, we noticed the landscape change from wooded and hilly to flatter and more agricultural. When we got off the Autoroute, we were heading west along the Loire River. After reading so much about this area recently and in school many moons ago, it almost seemed strange to actually be in it. It wasn't just some place from a book, it really existed. We decided to make the medieval city of Montrichard our first stop. It wasn't too far, we were hungry and we'd read an interesting chapter about it in our 'bible' for the trip; "The Road from the Past: Travelling through History in France" by Ina Caro. The city, dating from 1010, was the battleground divided and fought over by the Count of Anjou(also known as Foulques Nerra/the Black Falcon) and the Count of Blois a thousand years ago.
The Hotel de Ville, or City Hall....every town has one of course.
The approach to the Tower...
She described in colorful detail the 'keep', a tower, which Folques Nerra built and used to protect himself and his knights from their enemies. The walls were nine feet thick!
Here is a nice view of the Loire looking west. Folques Nerra didn't have to look over all these roof tops to see an approaching enemy....
While we really enjoyed Caro's description of the town and the famous "keep", neither lived up to her portayal or our expectations. Not being able to go into, or even see, the much acclaimed dungeon perhaps being the biggest disappointment. We did a quick tour of both, had a nice Sunday lunch at a small restaurant and moved on.
After leaving Montrichard, we continued our drive along the river and decided to spend the rest of the afternoon visiting Chenonceau. In contrast with our disappointment in Montrichard, we absolutely loved Chenonceau! It lived up to all, and perhaps exceeded, our expectations. The history of this chateau is long and colorful but so as not to bore you, I'll keep it brief.
The estate of Chenonceau dates back to 1243, Catherine Briconnet built it as a home in the early 1500's and Henry II gave it to his lovely mistress, Diane de Poitiers. While she lived there, she added a garden and the bridge between the house and the banks of the River Cher. When Henry died his jealous wife, Catherine de Medici, who'd had to live down the river at the much less beautiful Chateau Chaumont while her husband preferred to be with Diane(for 18 years!), took Chenonceaux back(and sent Diane to Chaumont). She built the gallery onto the Diane's bridge and added another garden. Catherine bequeathed the home to her daughter-in-law, who after her husband died, went into mourning there for the rest of her life. In 1733, it passed to the Dupin family and then in 1864 it was bought by Madame Peolouze who made it her life's work to restore the home. During WWI, the chateau served as a hospital and during WWII, occupied France was literally out the front door and while the "Free Zone" was out the back door on the other side of the Cher. The chateau is still privately held, now owned by the Menier family. From our visit, they are doing an outstanding job of running and maintaining this lovely estate. Have a look for yourself...
Here is the grand allee leading up to the chateau. Can't you just imagine riding along here in your horse drawn carriage...
and arriving here!?!
Catherine de Medici's garden, to the right of the chateau...
Diane de Poitier's much larger garden, on the left side....
The wisteria covered Chancellery...
View of the bridge and gallery...
View looking east up the river Cher and Diane's garden...
View from one of the windows in the Gallery...
Now let's go inside!! The first two rooms you visit are the Guard's Room and the Chapel. These beautiful stained glass windows in the Chapel were done in 1954, the originals were destroyed by a bombing in 1944.
Here is the incredible "Gallery" built by Catherine de Medici on the bridge built by Diane de Poitiers. It is 60 meters long. 6 meters wide and lit by 18 windows. This room was used for royal meals and receptions. What a party room!
We were fascinated with the kitchen. When Chenonceau was used as a hospital during WWI, it was remodelled as you see here...
Nick would really like to make a big batch of his spaghetti here!
This gorgeous piece is in the servants' dining room...
One thing that really impressed me about Chenonceau were the incredibly beautiful and creative floral arrangements in each of the rooms. The owners obviously take great pride in the presentation. Here are a few of our favorites...
We gave these Cala Lillies first prize!
One thing we came to feel here through the tour and through our readings, was a likeness for Diane and a distaste for Catherine. It was clear who was Henry's favorite and the most beautiful; Diane. Here is a huge, magnificent portrait of her...
The photography of the rooms themselves didn't come out very well, but here are a few...
Nick is standing in the Louis XIV drawing room, note the salamander of Francis I and the ermine of Queen Claude de France.
Bedroom of Louise de Lourraine (Catherine's daughter, later married to King Henry III)...
After taking in each and every room we decided to go outside and visit Diane's garden, looking so lovely with lots of Forget-me-nots, tulips and pansies...
On our way out we wandered through the wooded pathways to the Maze...but not without stopping for a last whiff of the wisteria!
This pagoda was at the center of the Maze...
Nick knew he would find the way out first!
As it was getting late, we headed for the little town of Blere(there is an accent on the last "e" but my computer isn't at all French so it doesn't have one), east of Tours, to our hotel, Le Cheval Blanc. After settling in, we had supper to a little creperie nearby.
This curch was on the same square as our hotel and when we started hearing the bells chime every quarter hour we got VERY nervous about sleeping that night. We were so happy when the chiming stopped at 9 bells...for the rest of the night!
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